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<title>Food and Wine in London</title>
<description>Brian St. Pierre's take on food and wine in London</description>
<link>http://www.foodandwineinlondon.com</link>
<lastBuildDate>Fri, 06 Apr 2012 11:57:06 +0100</lastBuildDate>
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    <title><![CDATA[The Modern Pantry launches Wine Tasting Menu]]></title>
    <description><![CDATA[Anna Hansen’s The Modern Pantry in Clerkenwell is now offering a seasonally changing Wine Tasting Menu, devised with the help of wine consultant Bill Knott. The initial offering was a menu matching food with Riesling from all over the world. Menus will include ‘Natural Wine Selection’ (April/May), ‘Best of British’ (June/July), ‘Bad Press Grapes’ (July/August) and ‘Wines from New Zealand’ (September/October). The Modern Pantry ground floor café is open seven days a week from breakfast through to dinner. The first-floor dining rooms are open for lunch and dinner, offering the new tasting menu as well as the a la carte. <b>The Modern Pantry, 47-48 St. John’s Square, London EC1V 4JJ. Tel: 020 7553 9210; www.themodernpantry.co.uk</b>]]></description>
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    <title><![CDATA[Franco’s: It might as well be Spring]]></title>
    <description><![CDATA[One sure sign of Spring, aside from lilacs and fuschias out in the garden and crocuses in the park, is the annual rollout of the Rosé wine list at Franco’s restaurant on Jermyn Street. It begins on April 24, with 40 Rosés listed, many by the glass and all first-rate, and runs until September. As the supply of wines runs out, others are added, so this is a proper showcase for the top tier of pink wines of the world (which includes places like Luxemburg, Switzerland, Spain, and parts of France other than Provence). The stylish, modern Italian food makes a good match, too. <b>Franco’s, 61 Jermyn Street, London SW1Y 6LX. Tel: +44 (0)20 7499 2211; www.francoslondon.com.</b>]]></description>
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    <title><![CDATA[Rowley Leigh brought to book]]></title>
    <description><![CDATA[Many of London’s best chefs have cookbooks out these days, but here’s a new one with a twist: <b>No Place Like Home</b> was actually written by Rowley Leigh, and it’s first-rate. In addition to being chef-patron at Le Cafe Anglais, Rowley writes a cookery column every week for the Financial Times, one of the few really useful ones. The book has been out of print for a long time, and its return in a new format is most welcome; it’s a series of literate essays on aspects of cooking, interwoven with recipes, so it’s a pleasure to read as well as cook from. My original version is quite sauce-splattered and beaten up—the sure sign of usefulness and affection. <b>No Place Like Home, Clearview Publishing, London, £9.99.</b>]]></description>
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    <title><![CDATA[5 Pollen Street ups the ante with new chef, wines]]></title>
    <description><![CDATA[Pollen Street, just off Hanover Square, is short but very much to the gastronomic point: Jason Atherton opened his Pollen Street Social to great acclaim, and across the street is <b>5 Pollen Street,</b> an established Italian, which has now hired a new chef and assembling a splendid, mostly Italian wine list. The new chef is Massimo Tagliaferri, whose CV includes a stint as head chef at Putney’s Phoenix restaurant (established by the legendary Franco Taruschio) and then Enoteca Turi, one of London’s best Italian restaurants. The wine list covers Italy, but Piedmont and its Barolos have a section all their own. <b>Tel: +44 020 7629 1555; www.5pollenstreet.com. </b>]]></description>
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    <title><![CDATA[Le Porte des Indes offers classes]]></title>
    <description><![CDATA[La Porte des Indes offers a unique style of Indian cooking, inspired by the French Creole cuisine of Pondichéry and other former French trading posts in Southern India.  Executive chef Mehernosh Mody will be hosting a series of demonstrations on the final Friday of every month. The proceedings will begin with a welcome drink and a tour of the kitchens, with advice and tips on the huge array of herbs and spices that are the mainstay of Indian cooking, including how to source, prepare and store them. Then he and his team will show how to prepare some of the restaurant’s signature dishes, such as Cassoulet de Fruits de Mer, a rich seafood stew simmered in 'vindai' spices, and Poulet Rouge, shredded chicken marinated in yoghurt and red spices served in a creamy sauce, and the class will sample the finished results. Lunch will follow. The classes run from 12pm until 1.30pm, with a 3 course lunch from 1.30pm onwards. The price is £45 per person,which includes a signed copy of the best-selling La Porte des Indes cookbook, a complimentary spice mix and a certificate of participation. The next class will take place on Friday 30th March. <b>La Porte des Indes, 32 Bryanston Street, London, W1H 7EG www.laportedesindes.com</b>]]></description>
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    <title><![CDATA[Le Cordon Bleu cookery school moves, expands]]></title>
    <description><![CDATA[Le Cordon Bleu has opened its new International Flagship Institute in London,  re-located and twice as large as its former premises in  Marylebone. The new state-of -the-art school is at 15 Bloomsbury Square, and has the capacity for up to 700 students. A variety of new courses will also be introduced, including  Short Courses, a Professional Diploma in Culinary Management, and Wine Courses.  The company, founded in Paris in 1895, operates more than 40 schools in over 20 countries, annually training more than 20,000 students in the Culinary Arts, Hospitality and Management, and considers itself  the guardian of French culinary techniques.  Despite current economic woes, demand for places (priced at up to £27,750 per year) is greater than ever – applications rose by 25 percent in the last 18 months.  The school will also operate the Café Le Cordon Bleu, situated alongside in a secluded courtyard behind Bloomsbury Square.  <b>Le Cordon Bleu London, 15 Bloomsbury Square, London, WC1; www.cordonbleu.edu/london </b>]]></description>
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    <title><![CDATA[Blue Elephant relocates in style]]></title>
    <description><![CDATA[London’s most spectacular Thai restaurant, Blue Elephant, has now moved to a location alongside the Thames, at Imperial Wharf, with new menus, featuring "Thai Cooking of the Past," based on ancient recipes, such as Ma Auan, steamed minced chicken with crab and foie gras, and Tom Jew Kai, a free range chicken soup; "Thai Cuisine of Today" features classic Thai dishes such as green curry with free range chicken in coconut milk and steamed sea bream with organic lemongrass and fresh lime juice. "Thai Kitchen of Tomorrow" includes Isaan Carpaccio, spicy raw slices of beef with fiery papaya salad, rock sea salt, a hint of olive oil and parmesan cheese, one of several dishes that add a contemporary twist to the traditional.  There is also a special Sunday Brunch, served from 12 noon until 3:30pm.  The interior of the building has been thoroughly redecorated, modeled on the historic royal ‘Saran Rom’ Palace in Bangkok; it adjoins a large outdoor heated terrace, with views over the river. Another new addition is a stand-alone cookery school on the first floor, similar to Blue Elephant’s esteemed schools in Bangkok and Phuket,  offering an introduction to Thai cuisine. <b>Blue Elephant, The Boulevard, Imperial Wharf, Townmead Road, London, SW6 2UB, www.blueelephant.com/london</b>]]></description>
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    <title><![CDATA[French lessons at Pont de la Tour]]></title>
    <description><![CDATA[Tom Cook, the new head chef at <b>Le Pont de la Tour</b> on Butler’s Wharf, is giving a series of classes on French cooking at the restaurant, on Saturday mornings, starting from April 28. “I’d like to take the fear factor out of French food for my guests by showing them dishes that they can recreate in their own kitchens, without needing fancy gizmos and obscure ingredients,”  he says. Each session will begin at 10am with coffee and pastries, followed by a 2-hour demonstration, then lunch at 12.30pm with wines chosen by master sommelier Nicolas Clerc. Classes are limited to 10 guests. The first class, on Saturday April 28, will focus on classic French desserts. Places are available at £65p.p. Then, on Saturday May 26, it’s all about seasonal luxury, featuring grilled scallops and asparagus, classic lobster thermidor and Valrhôna chocolate moelleux. Price, £75p.p. On June 29, it will be about seafood, including oyster preparation (shucking and condiments), how to prepare salt and pepper squid, and pan-fried sea bass with confit fennel and tomato. £65p.p. <b>Le Pont de la Tour, 36d Shad Thames, London; tel: 020 7403 8403; www.lepontdelatour.co.uk</b>]]></description>
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    <title><![CDATA[Fusion (and fun) at Benares]]></title>
    <description><![CDATA[Michelin-starred chef Atul Kochhar is embarking on an interesting venture, joining forces with some of the country’s leading chefs to create a series of fusion menus at <b>Benares.</b> First up is Anna Hansen, of <b>The Modern Pantry,</b> on 21st February until 5th March,  then Richard Corrigan, of <b>Corrigan’s,</b> on 20th March until 2nd April, David Thompson, <b>Nahm,</b> on 16th April until 29th April, and Nigel Haworth, <b>Northcote,</b> on 3rd May until 16th May. Each chef will collaborate with Kochhar to prepare a menu of small plates, consisting of 12 dishes designed to share--3 dishes at £21 per person. (Atul’s individual selection will include dishes like apricot stuffed tandoori cottage cheese in pickling marinade, chilli-marinated tandoor-roasted cauliflower, and chicken tikka tangy onion salad.) Dishes will be complemented by Benares' signature cocktails, though it looks as if there's also room for some Rieslings or Gewurztraminers from the restaurant’s very good wine list. <b>Benares, 12A Berkeley Square, London, +44 (0)20 7629 8886.</b>]]></description>
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    <title><![CDATA[Jeremy Lee moves to Quo Vadis]]></title>
    <description><![CDATA[Sam and Eddie Hart have announced a new partnership with Jeremy Lee, who will take charge of the kitchen at Quo Vadis. The restaurant will be closed for refurbishment from the 24th of December and will be reopening with a new menu and decor in the second week of January. Jeremy was part of Simon Hopkinson’s fabled kitchen brigade at Bibendum, and then went to the Blueprint Café in 1995, where he quickly established himself as one of London’s best chefs, with an assured, slightly quirky menu that he defined as “modern British,” though he pushed the envelope a bit with dishes like squid, samphire, and peas; Abroath smokie and potato salad; smoked eel sandwich with red-onion pickle; thick roast lamb chops with girolles; and a dense hare-and-chorizo pie. That part of Dean Street is one of Soho’s truly historic spots: Mozart once played the piano across the street, Karl Marx lived upstairs (“in some squalor”), and Charles De Gaulle drowned his exile’s sorrows a few doors down during WWII; Quo Vadis has been a well-known restaurant and hangout since 1926. <b>Quo Vadis, 26-29 Dean Street, London W1D 3LL,Tel: +44 (0)20 7440 1450. Open for lunch and dinner (from 5:00 p.m.) Monday-Saturday.</b>]]></description>
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    <title><![CDATA[Zagat Survey 2012: some thoughts]]></title>
    <description><![CDATA[Whatever you think of the Zagat Surveys—and my thought is that it’s a very mixed bag in terms of recommendations—it’s a pretty good snapshot of the restaurant scene in whatever town it’s covering. This year’s London survey rounded up the opinions of 5,497 diners who eat out a couple of times a week. The favorite cuisine is, unsurprisingly, Italian; more than a third are influenced by a connection to a famous chef, and three-quarters visit a restaurant’s website before eating there; a majority think “green” food (locally sourced, organic, etc.) is important, but the amount of people willing to pay more for it is down (that’s also true of supermarket surveys, too). A majority think texting, tweeting or talking on a mobile phone is “rude and inappropriate,” but don’t mind diners taking pictures of their food or companions, as long as it’s done in moderation (no definition of “moderation” for this crass behaviour is supplied). Top complaint? Service, as always.]]></description>
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    <title><![CDATA[Texture’s wine list elevates Riesling]]></title>
    <description><![CDATA[Texture, the  award-winning restaurant near Portman Square in London, has overhauled its wine list, with the intention of bringing it more in line with chef Agnar Sverrisson’s northern European cooking (he is Icelandic, and the menu features interesting variations on fish cooking). The menu has evolved over the four  years since the restaurant was founded, and co-owner and Master Sommelier Xavier Rousset has decided re-align the wine list  to create more harmony among many of his dishes; thus, more Riesling, from Germany, Alsace, Austria, Australia, New Zealand, and other countries, including some rare and old vintages (and also an increase in Burgundy and Pinot Noir from elsewhere). <b>Texture, 34 Portman Street, London W1H 7BY. Tel: 020 7224 0028; info@texture-restaurant.co.uk</b>]]></description>
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    <title><![CDATA[Zagat ratings: The Ledbury up, Ramsay down]]></title>
    <description><![CDATA[Tim Zagat was genial, even ebullient—as you’d expect, having sold his business to Google for a rumoured $200-million--at The Cut, Wolfgang Puck’s sleek, chic new restaurant at 45 Park Lane, as he presented the <b>Zagat Survey</b> 2012 results of London restaurants. With 5,497 diners reporting on 1,187 restaurants, it’s a fairly good snapshot of the scene. The Ledbury was up in several categories, number one for food (no argument from me there), and second for service (the Waterside Inn came first); it also entered the top-ten list for most favourite for the first time. Meanwhile, Gordon Ramsay’s flagship restaurant at Royal Hospital Road was down in all those categories—it led the food ratings for most of the last decade, but has now dropped to number eight. Also of note: The average cost of dining out has jumped by 6.3 percent—that’s slightly less than the average cost of dining in, judging by my market basket.]]></description>
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    <title><![CDATA[English wine: Sparkling news]]></title>
    <description><![CDATA[Production figures for the 2010 harvest in England have just been announced by the English Wine Producers; 30,346 hectolitres were vinified, equating to just over 4 million bottles.  This is the highest volume ever produced, breaking a previous record of 3.5m bottles. The increase reflects the rise in planting over the last five years.  Since 2004, vineyard hectarage has increased by nearly 75 percent, to 1323.5ha.   (This figure understates the true position, as official figures do not account for all the hectarage planted but not yet in production.) Sparkling wine leads the way.  In 2009 approximately 50 percent of total production was intended for sparkling wine, and based on the level of growth of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier plantings over the last five years, the trend will continue: These three varieties account for almost 50 percent of the total area.]]></description>
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    <title><![CDATA[Champagne Bar opens in Paddington Station]]></title>
    <description><![CDATA[Following the success of its elegant Champagne Bar in St. Pancras Station, Searcy’s has now opened <b>Paddington Champagne Bar,</b> in that station. Notable houses will be represented, and prices will range from £8 a glass (there are 14 offered by the glass) up to £320 for a bottle of Dom Perignon 1990. (For a real indulgence, there is also a Balthazar of Laurent-Perrier Brut NV for £1,200.) The menu features small plates, tapas-style, designed to match with Champagne, including cured British meats from Trealy Farm, daily seafood choices, and fine cheeses. Sharing boards are also  available; prices range from £4 to £29. Another feature is Tasting Flights, with  selections of smaller glasses of different styles. There’s also a selection of Champagne cocktails including The Paddington Bear (Grand Marnier, bitters, Champagne and candied orange). The elegant bar is in art deco style, and open from 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday-Saturday and noon to 10:30 p.m. on  Sunday.]]></description>
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    <title><![CDATA[Bar Battu: A Most Natural Wine Bar]]></title>
    <description><![CDATA[Wine bars are popping up all over London these days, in the sort of ferment I haven’t seen since the early 1980s. The food wasn’t always that great back then, but now it’s often on a par with the wine offerings. Bar Battu, just opened in The City, is nicely typical—bare brick walls, wood floors, and what the owners term “French flea market touches.” The menu’s rustic(snail and ox cheek ragout, red mullet or other fish escabeche, grilled chicken with garlicky potato salad, lots of charcuterie and plenty of cheese) and well-executed. The wine list has about 100 selections, most natural, organic, or even biodynamic, a stellar array: COS, Lapierre, de Bortoli, Hidalgo, Domaine de la Chevalerie, Breton Vouvrays, and much more. <b>www.barbattu.com</b>]]></description>
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    <title><![CDATA[Heston, Jason, and . . . whatsisname?]]></title>
    <description><![CDATA[Identita London, the recent international chefs’ congress, didn’t lack for star power—Heinz Beck, Wylie Dufresne, David Chang, and Sat Bains were among the speakers—but the spotlight was on two British chefs in transition. <b>Ashley Palmer Watts,</b> Heston Blumenthal’s executive head chef, will be in charge of their new restaurant in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, probably London’s most eagerly awaited opening (which, this year, is saying a lot). It will be called Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, and feature modern versions of old English recipes; they have been testing recipes for months, with more to come—the place doesn’t open till January. . .<b>Jason Atherton</b> led off the program by demonstrating some recipes he’ll feature at his new restaurant, which opens in October, his first venture since leaving Maze. Interestingly, the program mentioning the great chefs he’s worked under and learned from included Pierre Koffman, Marc Haeberlin, and Ferran Adria, but not Gordon Ramsay. Surely an oversight? Whatever, his new venture is also eagerly awaited.]]></description>
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    <title><![CDATA[Le Cafe Anglais debuts oyster bar]]></title>
    <description><![CDATA[Rowley Leigh's Le Café Anglais has added a snazzy new 50-seat oyster bar, installed as part of a makeover during its August closing. It features a marble bar with dark wood trim and crimson leather stools, flanked by booths and banquettes in the same materials. A massive crystal chandelier hovers above the bar, which is at the entrance of the restaurant, in front of floor-to-ceiling mullioned windows. Besides oysters (half a dozen choices, including Kumamotos at £13.50 for six, and Maldon Natives “No. 2s” at £18.50 for six), there are lobster and crab and smoked salmon, trout, eel, and mackerel in various incarnations, moules marinieres, and a sumptuous fish pie. The bar has its own wine list, 13 selections offered by the glass (£3.75-10), carafe (£8-20) and bottle (£16-40). The Oyster Bar is open seven days a week, from noon to 10:30 p.m. Bookings not required. <b>www.lecafeanglais.co.uk.</b>]]></description>
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    <title><![CDATA[Frightening thought at The Ledbury]]></title>
    <description><![CDATA[I ran into Shane Osborn at the “Taste of Sydney” lunch at The Ledbury, where chef Brett Graham was hosting Peter Gilmore and Mark Best, chefs at top Sydney restaurants Marque and Quay, here to present some of their brilliantly inventive cooking (and the idea of Sydney as a fine-dining city—no argument from me on that one). . . I asked Shane how his rooftop herb garden at Pied-a- Terre was coming along, and he said he had some trouble with birds. “I put up an effigy of Marco Pierre White as a scarecrow, but it didn’t scare them off at all. Now I’ve got a sure-fire idea: I’m going to put up one of Michael Winner. That should do the trick!”]]></description>
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    <title><![CDATA[Galvin Café a Vin goes wild]]></title>
    <description><![CDATA[Galvin Café, recently launched and popular from the start, has now added "wine" to its name, as a way of emphasizing a new list based mostly on organic, biodynamic, or at least “natural” wines (low or no sulphur dioxide, unfiltered, unfined). The bistro, behind and adjoining Galvin's more formal La Chapelle restaurant, specializes in robust country-French and Italian-style dishes, notably (and deliciously) from a wood-fired oven. As many of the wines are from artisan producers and unfamiliar, the list is thoroughly annotated by Head Sommelier Andrea Briccarello. <b>www.galvinrestaurants.com</b>]]></description>
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